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3/19/2009 10:34:07 AM
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cycleNoodle
Posts 40
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Can you run Mavic rims or similar with non tubeless tyres and will they "burp" or roll off the rim under load? I am having trouble with punctures using this set up and wonder weather to get the stans rim strips or use proper tubeless tyres?!
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3/19/2009 11:37:17 AM
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B-Roadie
Posts 86
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I would stay away from UST tyres for XC. The weight penalty is quite severe. UST tyres come in over the published weight more than normal tyres as well.
Using a stans rim strip with normal tyres on UST rims will work fine.
Unlike combining 2 systems by running normal tyres on UST rims. 
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You wont learn how tight you can turn a screw without stripping a few threads.
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3/19/2009 7:38:48 PM
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roffster
Posts 68
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I agree, Stans rim strips on UST rims with standard tyres. Oh, and pick your lines!
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3/20/2009 9:05:56 AM
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cycleNoodle
Posts 40
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Would the answer not be to just get no tubes wheels and if so what are the best hubs to use?
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3/20/2009 11:58:49 AM
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B-Roadie
Posts 86
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The best hubs to use are the new Tune King & Kong. But they're bloody pricey!
Chris Bling hubs are too heavy, which made me sad, they're porn.
XTR's are good but then you have to use centre lock rotors or use the heavy DT swiss adapters. I think they also run cup and cone bearings aswell, which with improvements in cartridge bearing quality over the last 5 years are a bit behind their time now, but still do have some advantages.
I am running Hope Pro2 hubs. They have improved axel caps now as a result I am not having any problems with sealing and they're running smooth as slik. They're also very cheap! And very light! Hope's customer service is also second to none. If you speak to Hope directly, odds on they will sort you out for free. A mate of mine mangled his alloy free hub in a vice trying to get the bearings out. He spoke to Hope and said he machined a drift (yeah, right, it was a socket) to get them out but they wouldn't budge and he damaged the freehub body in the process. He sent it off and got a replacement with new bearings in it free of charge. The freehub alone is £60!!!
Goldtech are also an option but are a bit pricey and the only difference between them and the Hope hubs is about 10g.
Ive built the Pro2's up on Olympic rims and used Sapim CX-Ray spokes and Sapim black pro lock nipples. Not weighed them exactly but they're bloody light and were £150.
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You wont learn how tight you can turn a screw without stripping a few threads.
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4/1/2009 2:04:50 PM
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roffster
Posts 68
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Reading a lot about building the wheels at the moment, particularly as it relates to No Tubes light Race/Race 7000 rims which are difficult to build. Tune hubs seem to be hard to get sufficient tensions on non-drive side giving trouble with strength. DT Swiss are also not recommended by No Tubes for the same reason. They reckon you can only achieve about 58% of the tension on the non-drive side versus drive side. If you tighten the drive side much above 95kgf you pull the nipples in the rim causing some deformation, in itself that isn't a major problem but will shorten the life of the rim. AC, XTR, Hope are recommended. I am a fan of XTR because they are unpretentious, easy to service, light, tough and just work. Although following the astronomical price increases from Shimano they might be worthwhile stocking up on while there are still old pre price increase stocks out there. Just riding along build using the DT Swiss hubs though so they must be ok?
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7/13/2009 11:21:48 AM
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lostinthepark
Posts 2
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Im thinking of converting to tubeless or even tubs from tubes and I have to say im not convinced by either method yet, tubs require a lot of money as id HAVE to get carbon wheels (this would not please the wife!) but then tubeless... I dunno... I keep hearing too many moans about them, which tyres go on which rims with what sealant?!?! ARGGHH! And are they easy to get on the rim? Can you use a cannister to inflate? So many questions unanswered and so complicated!!!
...maybe i should just stick to old fashioned tubes!?
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